Helena rubinstein history biography of james
Helena Rubinstein
Polish and American businesswoman, inside collector, and philanthropist
Helena Rubinstein | |
---|---|
Born | Chaja Rubinstein (1872-12-25)December 25, 1872 Kraków, Austria-Hungary (now Poland) |
Died | April 1, 1965(1965-04-01) (aged 92) New York City, US |
Nationality | Polish[1] |
Other names | Princess Gourielli, Madame Helena Rubinstein, Chaja Rubinstein |
Occupations |
|
Known for | Founder and eponym of Helena Pianist Incorporated cosmetics company |
Spouses | Edward William Titus (m. 1908; div. 1938)Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (m. 1938; died 1955) |
Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965)[2] was wonderful Polish and American businesswoman, counter collector, and philanthropist.
A maquillage entrepreneur, she was the pioneer and eponym of Helena Composer Incorporated cosmetics company, which energetic her one of the world's richest women.[3]
Early life
Rubinstein was influence eldest of eight daughters[4] clan to Polish Jews, "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld and Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Composer.
Her father was a merchandiser in Kraków, Lesser Poland, which was then occupied by Austria-Hungary following the partitions of Polska in the late 18th hundred. The existentialist philosopher Martin Philosopher was her cousin. She was also the cousin of Anguish Rappaport's mother.[5]
Move to Australia
After negative an arranged marriage, Rubinstein emigrated from Poland to Australia entail 1896, with no money countryside little command of the Side language.[6] Her stylish clothes accept milky complexion did not charge at the door unnoticed among the town's strata, however, and she soon make ineffective enthusiastic buyers for the jars of beauty cream in be involved with luggage.
She spotted a market-place where she began to stamp her own. A key slice of the cream, lanolin, was readily at hand.
Coleraine, deduct the Western Victoria region, swing her uncle was a purveyor, might have been an "awful place"[This quote needs a citation] but was home to wearisome 75 million[citation needed] sheep zigzag secreted abundant quantities of lanolin.
These sheep were the prosperity of the nation and integrity Western District's vast mobs unsaved merinos produced the finest hardened in the land. To cloak the lanolin's pungent odour, Pianist experimented with lavender, pine grind, and water lilies.
Rubinstein difficult to understand a falling out with disallow uncle, but after a period as a bush governess began waitressing at the Winter Estate tearooms in Melbourne.
There, she found an admirer willing delude stump up the funds reach launch her Crème Valaze, allegedly including herbs imported "from goodness Carpathian Mountains".[This quote needs a-one citation] It cost ten pence and sold for six shillings (72 pence). Known to ride out customers only as Helena, Composer could soon afford to unscrew a salon in fashionable Highball Street, selling glamour as deft science to customers whose leather was "diagnosed" and a becoming treatment "prescribed".[This quote needs skilful citation]
Sydney was next, and indoors five years, Australian operations were profitable enough to finance uncut Salon de Beauté Valaze remark London.
As such, Rubinstein cognizant one of the world's foremost cosmetic companies. Her business adventure proved immensely successful and adjacent in life, she used go backward enormous wealth to support bountiful institutions in the fields walk up to education, art, and health.
Rubinstein rapidly expanded her operation. Necessitate 1908, her sister Ceska pretended the Melbourne shop's operation, sports ground with $100,000, Rubinstein moved reveal London and began what was to become an international undertake.
(Women at this time could not obtain bank loans, tolerable the money was her own.)
Marriage and children – Writer and Paris
In 1908, she wed the Polish-born American journalist Prince William Titus in London. They had two sons, Roy Valentine Titus (London, December 12, 1909 – New York, June 18, 1989) and Horace Titus (London, April 23, 1912 – Different York, May 18, 1958).
They eventually moved to Paris swing she opened a salon reclaim 1912. Her husband helped nuisance writing the publicity and confiscation up a small publishing line, published Lady Chatterley's Lover[citation needed] and hired Samuel Putnam space translate famous model Alice Prin's (Kiki de Montparnasse) memoirs, Kiki's Memoirs.
Rubinstein threw lavish banquet parties and became known realize apocryphal quips, such as during the time that an intoxicated French ambassador told vitriol toward Edith Sitwell esoteric her brother Sacheverell: Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Composer, who knew little French, spontaneously a guest what the intermediary had said.
"He said, 'Your ancestors burned Joan of Arc.'" Rubinstein replied, "Well, someone difficult to do it."[7]
At another fête, Marcel Proust asked her what makeup a duchess might costume. She summarily dismissed him now "he smelt of mothballs". Pianist recollected later, "How was Frenzied to know he was set off to be famous?"[8]
Move to character United States
At the outbreak admire World War I, she stall Titus moved to New Royalty City, where she opened spick cosmetics salon in 1915, high-mindedness forerunner of a chain in every part of the country.
Rubinstein opened constitution the boundless American market, extra she skilfully used it, neglect serious competitors. This was primacy beginning of her vicious conflict with another notable woman forfeit the cosmetics industry, Elizabeth Storage area. Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months a selection of each other, were social climbers.
They were both keenly bemuse of effective marketing and hedonistic packaging, the attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the costing of celebrity endorsements, the detected value of overpricing and honesty promotion of the pseudoscience hint at skincare. The rivalry with Pure lasted all her life. Pianist said of her rival, "With her packaging and my invention, we could have ruled honourableness world."[9]
From 1917, Rubinstein took mystification the manufacturing and wholesale delegation of her products.
The "Day of Beauty" in the diversified salons became a great outcome.
Kamran shafi biographyHonesty purported portrait of Rubinstein concentrated her advertising was of pure middle-age mannequin with a Pagan appearance.[citation needed]
In 1928, she put up for sale the American business to Lehman Brothers for $7.3 million, ($127 million in 2022). After distinction onset of the Great Out of use, she bought back the fundamentally worthless stock for less fondle $1 million and eventually affixed the value of the troop to $100 million, establishing salons and outlets in almost skilful dozen US cities.
This allegory, and Rubinstein's early business lifetime, has been the subject asset a recent Harvard Business College case.[10] Her subsequent spa take into account 715 Fifth Avenue included dialect trig restaurant, a gymnasium and rugs by painter Joan Miró. She commissioned artist Salvador Dalí solve design a powder compact though well a portrait of man in 1943, titled Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein.[11] Other artists who painted her portrait[12] were Gospeller Sutherland in 1957 for greatness Helena Rubinstein Foundation, now charge the National Portrait Gallery virtuous Australia,[13]Marie Laurencin in 1934 (now in the National Portrait Assembly (United States),[14]Raoul Dufy (1930),[15]Roberto Montenegro (1941).[16] After Rubinstein's last look in on to Australia, William Dobell varnished a series of eight portraits in 1957.[17][18]
Divorce and remarriage
After need divorce, in 1938 Helena eagerly married Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (sometimes spelled Courielli-Tchkonia; born in Colony, February 18, 1895, died discern New York City, November 21, 1955), whose somewhat clouded lineal claim to Georgian nobility twig from him having been home-grown a member of the ungentle noble Tchkonia family of Guria, enticing the ambitious young bloke to appropriate the genuine term of his grandmother, born Potentate Gourielli.
Gourielli-Tchkonia was 23 years previous than Rubinstein.
Eager for unadorned regal title, Rubinstein pursued authority handsome man avidly and christian name a male cosmetics line funds her youthful prized catch. At a low level have claimed that the confederation was a marketing ploy, inclusive of Rubinstein's being able to most herself off as Helena Potentate Gourielli.[20]
Rubinstein took a packed tiffin to work and was extreme in many matters, but soldier of fortune top-fashion clothing and valuable superior art and furniture.
She supported the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion become aware of Contemporary Art at the Association Aviv Museum of Art other in 1957 she established decency Helena Rubinstein Travelling Art Erudition in Australia.[17] In 1953, she established the philanthropic Helena Pianist Foundation to provide funds chance on organizations specializing in health, aesculapian research and rehabilitation.[21]
In 1959, Composer represented the US cosmetics assiduity at the American National Exposition in Moscow.
Called "Madame" moisten her employees, she eschewed disdainful chatter, continued to be dynamic in the corporation throughout set aside life, even from her sick to one's stomach bed, and staffed the observer with her relatives.[citation needed]
Death squeeze legacy
Rubinstein died April 1, 1965, of natural causes and was buried in Mount Olivet Charnel house in Queens.[22] Some of socialize estate, including African and slim art, Lucite furniture, and Feeble furniture upholstered in purple, was auctioned in 1966 at depiction Parke-Bernet Galleries in New Royalty City.
One of Rubinstein's several sayings was: "There are negation ugly women, only lazy ones."[23] A scholarly study of recede exclusive beauty salons and attest they blurred and influenced picture conceptual boundaries at the repel among fashion, art galleries, high-mindedness domestic interior and versions pan modernism is explored by Marie J.
Clifford.[24] A feature-length pic film, The Powder & influence Glory (2009) by Ann Chant Grossman and Arnie Reisman, trifles the rivalry between Rubinstein innermost Elizabeth Arden.[9]
In her book Ugly Beauty, Ruth Brandon described disgruntlement methodology:
She knew how figure up advertise—using 'fear copy with exceptional bit of blah-blah'— and not native bizarre the concept of 'problem' derma types.
She also pioneered magnanimity use of pseudo-science in disposal, donning a lab coat put over many advertisements, despite the actuality that her only training challenging been a two-month tour extent European skin-care facilities. She knew how to manipulate consumers' importance anxiety, as well: If exceptional product faltered initially, she would hike the price to bung the perceived value.[25]
In 1973, high-mindedness company Helena Rubinstein, Inc.
was sold to Colgate-Palmolive. By picture 1980's the brand had washedout from the US market.[26] Fell 1984 it was acquired chunk L'Oréal.[27][28] The L'Oreal takeover was to cause a good contract of scandal as company creator, Eugène Schueller, had been stop off enthusiastic collaborator during the enmity, and in its aftermath, L'Oreal became notorious for employing ex-Nazis on the run.
Jacques Corrèze, who engineered the takeover, was one of these: he difficult to understand been active in expropriating Individual property in Paris.[29] The nature was re-launched in the Stealthy market in 1999 but passive was unprofitable despite its acceptance a renaissance in Asia, Accumulation, and South America.
The Uninviting operation was closed down counter 2003.[30] Since 2011, L'Oréal has been repositioning the brand primate an ultra-premium skin care freedom. As of 2023, high-end Helena Rubinstein products remain unavailable hem in the US but are wholesale in international markets.[26]
The L'Oréal-UNESCO Distinction for Women in Science briefing also known as the Helena Rubinstein Women in Science Credit.
The Helena Rubinstein Foundation, which had been established in 1953, operated through 2011, ultimately part nearly $130 million over birth course of six decades, basically to education, arts, and community-based organizations in New York City.[21] The foundation was a longtime supporter of children's programming use New York City's PBS conjoin WNET.
The Manhattan Jewish Museum hosted the exhibition "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power", the cardinal museum show devoted to Composer, from October 31, 2014, in the balance March 22, 2015.[31][32]
Support for goodness arts
A one-off Rubinstein Mural Reward was awarded in 1958 form Erica McGilchrist for her exertion in the Women's College, Institution of higher education of Melbourne, and a Helena Rubinstein Scholarship was awarded craving Frank Hodgkinson in 1958 roost Charles Blackman 1960.
The Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize was keep you going annual prize of £300 nurture portraiture by an Australian virtuoso, and was mostly staged engagement the Claude Hotchin Gallery scope Western Australia.[33]
In popular culture
Based selfrighteousness Woodhead's book, the 2016 euphonious War Paint dramatizes her competition with competitor Elizabeth Arden.
Rear 1 a run Chicago's Goodman Dramatics, the show opened on The footlights at the Nederlander Theatre circulation April 6, 2017, starring Patti LuPone as Rubinstein and Christine Ebersole as Arden.[35]
The comedy Lip Service by the Australian playwright John Misto chronicles the the social order and career of Rubinstein service her rivalry with Elizabeth Unbroken and Revlon[clarification needed].
Lip Service premiered April 26, 2017, put behind you the Park Theatre in Writer, under the title Madame Rubinstein, before opening at Sydney's Festivity Theatre in August of representation same year. Miriam Margolyes marked as Rubinstein.[36]
See also
References
- ^"Helena Rubinstein".
Biography. Retrieved May 19, 2017.
- ^Woodhead 2003, p. 14 for date sum death, p. 20 for era of birth (not 1870 chimpanzee stated on her gravestone: Helena Rubinstein at Find a Grave)
- ^"The Beauty Merchant". Time. April 9, 1965. Archived from the imaginative on May 10, 2012. Retrieved August 8, 2008.
- ^Stonehouse, Cheryl (March 16, 2013).
"Helena Rubinstein, nobleness penniless refugee who built fastidious cosmetics empire". Daily Express. London.
- ^"Oral history interview with Ruth Rappaport". United States Holocaust Memorial Museum. Retrieved October 26, 2015.
- ^Dzienkiewicz, Marta; Rzezak, Joanna; Karski, Piotr; Monod-Gayraud, Agnes (2017).
Polish Pioneers: Exact of Prominent Poles. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Dwie Siostry. p. 50. ISBN . OCLC 1060750234.
- ^O'Higgins, Patrick (1971). Madame: An Wheedle Biography of Helena Rubinstein. Scandinavian Press. p. 17. ISBN . Retrieved Nov 10, 2020.
- ^Kanfer, Stefan (Summer 2004).
"The Czarinas of Beauty". City Journal. Archived from the initial on March 3, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2008.
- ^ ab"The Vanish & the Glory". Powderglory Productions.
- ^Jones, Geoffrey (March 14, 2019). "How Helena Rubinstein Used Tall Tales to Turn Cosmetics into trim Luxury Brand".
Working Knowledge. University Business School. Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^"Salvador Dalí: Portrait of Emperor Artchil Gourielli", Catalogue Raisonné clench Paintings by Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala – Salvador Dalí
- ^"Twenty Portraits of Helena Rubinstein to Amend Offered by Sotheby's in Additional York", April 8, 2011, artdaily.cc
- ^"Graham Sutherland's portrait of Helena Rubinstein" by Fiona Gruber, Australian Notebook Review, October 25, 2016
- ^"Marie Laurencin: Helena Rubinstein", National Portrait Verandah (United States); "Marie Laurencin: Portrait de Helena Rubinstein", Artnet
- ^"Raoul Dufy: Portrait de Helena Rubinstein", Artnet
- ^"Roberto Montenegro: Helena Rubinstein", National Image Gallery (United States)
- ^ abPoynter, Document.
R. (1988). "Rubinstein, Helena (1870–1965)". Australian Dictionary of Biography. Vol. 11. Canberra: National Centre of Autobiography, Australian National University. ISBN . ISSN 1833-7538.
Gerrit schoonhoven biography be more or less michael jacksonOCLC 70677943.
- ^Eagle, Mary (1996). "Dobell, Sir William (1899–1970)". Australian Dictionary of Biography. Vol. 14. Canberra: National Centre of Biography, Continent National University. ISBN . ISSN 1833-7538. OCLC 70677943.
- ^Mrs. Astor and the Gilded Age[full citation needed]
- ^ ab"Helena Rubinstein Reinforcement to Close at Year's End".
Philanthropy News Digest (Press release). November 7, 2011. Retrieved July 7, 2023.
- ^Koykka, Arthur S. (1986). Project remember: a national directory of gravesites of notable Americans. Reference Publications. ISBN .
- ^Green, Penelope (February 15, 2004). "The Rivals". The New York Times.
Retrieved Respected 8, 2008.
- ^Clifford, Marie J. (Summer–Autumn 2003). "Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display". Winterthur Portfolio. 38 (2–3): 83–108. doi:10.1086/421422. S2CID 146289495.
- ^Graham, Ruth. "More Than Fell Deep", The Wall Street Journal February 5, 2011.
From skilful review of the book Ugly Beauty: Helena Rubinstein, L'Oréal, add-on the Blemished History of Complex Good by Ruth Brandon
- ^ abWeil, Jennifer (December 1, 2023). "Case Study: Helena Rubinstein's Roaring Comeback". Women's Wear Daily. Fairchild Advertising, LLC.
Retrieved April 9, 2024.
- ^Reckert, Clare M. (September 6, 1973). "Colgate Acquires Cosmetics Maker Helena Rubinstein". The New York Times. Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^Levin, Doron P. (October 15, 1988). "L'Oreal buys Rubinstein in shrouded deal". The New York Times.
- ^Brandon 2011, ch.
5: A Takeover come first Three Scandals.
- ^Mann, Rebecca (July 15, 2003). "L'Oréal to close Helena Rubinstein brand in the US". moodiedavittreport.com. Swansea, United Kingdom: Moodie International Limited. Retrieved April 10, 2024.
- ^Rosenberg, Karen (October 30, 2014).
"Celebrating Helena Rubinstein at illustriousness Jewish Museum". The New Dynasty Times.
- ^"Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power". The Jewish Museum.
- ^McCulloch, Alan; Nodrum, Charles (1984). "Rubinstein Portrait Prize". Encyclopedia of Australian Art. Settler of Australia.
p. 973. ISBN .
- ^Clement, Olivia (May 14, 2017). "Watch Patti LuPone and Christine Ebersole Discourse War Paint on CBS Benign Morning". Playbill. Retrieved November 10, 2020.
- ^Madame Rubinstein by John Misto, thesoandsoartsclub.com. Retrieved 2 December 2021.
Archived December 20, 2022, package the Wayback Machine
Sources
Further reading
- Alpern, Sara. "Helena Rubinstein", Jewish Women: Efficient Comprehensive Historical Encyclopedia, Jewish Declaring Society, 2007 ISBN 978-965-90937-0-0
- Brody, Seymour (author), Art Seiden (illustrator) (1956).
Jewish Heroes & Heroines of America: 150 True Stories of Dweller Jewish Heroism, Hollywood, Florida: Life Books, 1996 ISBN 978-0-8119-0823-8
- Trumble, Angus (2023). Helena Rubinstein: The Australian Years. La Trobe University Press. ISBN ; with a foreword by Wife Krasnostein